Wine reviews

Wine Review: Domaine Muré Alsace Sylvaner Signature

Domaine Muré is based in Rouffach, not far south of Colmar and close to Eguisheim (so close, in fact, that Rouffach and Eguisheim share a local tourist office). They are also well represented by Maison Pfister wine merchants in the centre of Colmar – where I first discovered their wines in 2013.

The Domaine’s roots were originally planted (pun intended) in Westhalten by Michel Muré in 1650. The biggest step taken by the family over the centuries was the 1935 purchase – by 9th generation Alfred Muré – of the whole 12 hectares of Clos Saint Landelin, a terraced walled vineyard within the larger Vorburg vineyard. His sons Oscar and Armand moved the winery to Rouffach, just a few kilometres east of Westhalten, in 1960. The estate is now in the capable hands of Veronique and Thomas Muré, the 12th generation of their family business.

Since 1999 the estate has been farmed organically, and biodynamically since 2013. By both ploughing between the rows and planting densely the family encourage the vines to send their roots deep. Yields are kept low which also preserves quality.

The Domaine now totals 28 hectares, of which Clos Landelin covers 12, all within Grand Cru Vorbourg. The remaining 16 hectares include Grand Gru Zinnkoepflé (for Riesling and Gewurz), other parcels of Grand Cru Vorbourg, some Lieux-dits and other plots around Rouffach.

Like most Alsace vignerons, Muré produces a broad range of Alsace wines including Crémants, dry whites, sweet wines and reds. There are a few other wines in their range which deserve a mention:

  • Pinot Noir “V” which is made from grapes grown in the Grand Cru Vorbourg, but cannot (currently) be labelled as Grand Cru as Pinot Noir is not permitted to carry that appellation in Alsace
  • Gewurztraminer Maceration, an amber / orange wine with ten days of skin maceration
  • Riesling Côte de Rouffach sans souffre ajouté, a Riesling with no sulphur added
  • Sylvaner Cuvée Oscar Clos Saint Landelin, a Grand Cru Sylvaner in all but name, as this variety also cannot be labelled as a Grand Cru (with the exception of Zotzenberg)

So now some notes on a Muré wine that I tasted recently:

Domaine Muré Alsace Sylvaner Signature 2014

Muré Sylvaner

If you didn’t spot the vintage on the title then the colour of the wine drops some strong hints; Sylvaner is usually drunk young (more on which another time) and is generally very pale, so the deep lemon to light gold colour of this Sylvaner is a sign of decent ageing.

The nose is quite expressive; Sylvaner isn’t that aromatic but this had some nice “toasty” notes, very reminiscent of Riesling, actually, but none of the kerosene aromas that Riesling can express*There’s no oxidisation here, however; it’s still perfectly clean and sound. The palate is gently fruity, though still with plenty of acidity. This is far from being a “lesser” wine; it shows that Sylvaner can excel in the right hands and can age as well as “better” grape varieties.

  • ABV: 11.0%
  • RRP: approx. €16
  • Source:  Purchased from Mitchell & Son

* Much to Jim’s disgust