Domaine Marc Kreydenweiss
The Kreydenweiss family can trace their roots in Andlau’s vines back to the 18th century where their forebears the Gresser family grew grapes and also ran a mill on behalf of the Abbey. In 1850 Alfred Gresser began bottling his own wines, quite novel at the time. His son Fernand decided to sell off the family’s mill in 1918 and concentrate on the wine business. At the end of WWII it was Denise’s turn to take the reins, along with her husband René Kreydenweiss. This couple transitioned the family business from wholesale to selling to the general public.
1971 saw the torch passing to Denise and Réné’s son Marc Kreydenweiss. A geology-obsessed visionary, he pushed the wines towards a pure expression of their terroir. This was enhanced by an evolution into biodynamic viticulture – he became founding president of the Biodyvin organisation in 1989.
The eldest of Marc’s six children, Manfred, had joined Marc in the ’80s and was part of the move to biodynamics, but he sadly died in an accident at the age of 37 in 2008. The other sons were already involved in the family business; Antoine in Alsace and Jean in the family’s newer venture in Costières de Nîmes. Marc moved permanently to Nîmes giving Antoine free range in Alsace.
Antoine began a number of projects to improve the Domaine and its wines. He let certain wines mature on their lees for longer, and introduced a horse “Sam” for tilling between the rows of vines. After a decade of falling yields, in 2016 he decided to start buying grapes from six local vignerons who were either organic and / or biodynamic and had great sites. This also enabled him to start producing Crémant d’Alsace.
Since then change has been the norm; a new cellar of 650 m² over 2 levels, more stainless steel tanks, concrete eggs and large format barrels, a stable and more horses, and more partner growers.
Grand Cru Moenchberg
Grand Cru Moenchberg extends over two villages, Andlau and Eichhoffen. The name Moenchberg – literally “Monk’s Hill” – dates back to the 11th century, though the area had already been under vine for four centuries at that point. The name reflected the influence of the clergy in winemaking, just as in Burgundy, and in particular the Benedictine monks of Altorf Abbey. Documents show that Alsace Pope Leo IX ordered wine from the Andlau area.
The soils are Marl-limestone-slate and colluvium material (loose sediments at the base of a steep slope, cf alluvium whch is generally washed down by water) and range between 230 to 260 metres. Exposure is to the South and South-East and the total area is 11.83 hectares. The predominant variety planted is Riesling (62%) with Pinot Gris (23%) and Gewurztraminer (15%) making up the balance.
The limestone soil lends Moenchberg wines an expressive streak of acidity, whereas the southern aspect results in early-ripening grapes with intense fruitiness, even tropical notes. Despite their early approachability, Moenchberg wines are at their most complex after four or five years.
Marc Kreydenweiss Alsace Grand Cru Moenchberg Pinot Gris 1997
Looking back through the winery’s recent history shows that this wine was made by Marc and Manfred after their move to biodynamic viticulture. As you can see on the image above, the colour is a vibrant gold, the result of age and some residual sugar.
The nose shows honey, exotic spices, and confected pip, stone and tropical fruits. On the palate, Moenchberg’s trademark acidity has softened over the years, and is now not all all obvious, but it’s still there providing a supporting role to the fruits and tertiary notes. Quince jelly and mango sit above stewed apricot and yellow plums
I’m sure this wine will have been lovely when it was young, but it was well worth the wait. It’s one of the best wines I’ve tasted so far this year.
- ABV: 13.5%
- RRP: n/a
- Source: Terroirs, Donnybrook
- Stockists: out of stock
